01 August 2010


there hasn't been much surf this summer.

june and july usually aren't so good for surfing anyway. winter is biggest but fall is best: the indian summer means warm winds and waves. by late august, september, the water has finally warmed up. one sign of warm water - which means barely pushing 15 degrees (60 fahrenheit) - in our parts is these deep orange jellies. they come from the north with the current, i guess.

throughout summer proper the mornings are most often foggy (we don't mind that); by the afternoon when the fog has cleared up, the surf's blown out. this summer it's just been flat. a few swells have come through and then quickly disappeared.

but i don't need big waves. although i've been surfing for longer than not - two-thirds of my life - i'm not particularly good at it. i have fun though. so much fun! yesterday i was out with a couple of lady friends. it makes me so happy to be with other women in the water in such a male-dominated sport. even though they're all affable men, indeed, stand-up citizens, i feel more at home in the water when i'm out with other ladies. and the water is my other home. we just share it with seals, otters, dolphins, and the occasional jelly.

i love being in the water on my longboard even when it's so grey you can't even discern the horizon. it's a timeless state of being. nothing else i know compares to sitting on the outside, seeing your wave swell up into a peak behind you, paddling - stroke stroke stroke - hard, popping up, and cutting into the soft line of a wave.

plus, saltwater cures everything from hangnails to scabby knees to a broken heart. on that note, i leave you with this song by my friends port o'brien.


Anonymous said...

Lets catch a wave in october!
although im scared, but Im up for trying!

maya said...

yes, let's! :)